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Quest 1 bike mount, where to connect

 
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bumpkin
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Joined: Feb 08, 2006
Posts: 264
Location: Herefordshire

PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 8:59 pm    Post subject: Quest 1 bike mount, where to connect Reply with quote

Firstly big it up for Debbie from VTP who took my order for the powered Garmin mount for my new Quest yesterday and virtually jumped through hoops to try and get it to me quickly at minimal cost. It arrived first thing this morning and cost about 4 less, inc. P&P, that most suppliers sell it for before they add shipping.

As I had already arranged to meet some members of my bike club at 10:15 for a rideout and wanted to use the Quest I had to work quickly.

I got the soldering iron out pulled the tank and seat off my VFR VTEC and set about fitting it (I already have the Ram mount on the bike). Did a neat but swift job connecting the + lead to the rear light live feed and the - lead to the negative rear light wire. Tested successfully (so I thought) and put everything back together again and set off.

Half way down my lane I did my usual rolling brake test and was a little alarmed that the Quest announced that it was going to switch off in 30 seconds. As soon as I released the brake lever the dialogue box disappeared and power was resumed. This continued throughout the day, every time I braked there was insufficient power to to run the unit off external power. Do I need to connect to another feed (I don't want to connect to an un-switched source such as direct to the battery) or is it the connection to the negative rear light (this is shared with the brake light) that's causing the problem.

Only occurred to me that there's an option to disable the 'auto off' feature in the menus just now Embarassed However, I would rather retain that feature. Any one have experience of this?
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Chas
Garmin i3, Quest & StreetPilot 2720 with GTM10
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adrianh
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Joined: Apr 30, 2006
Posts: 19
Location: Hambleton, North Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you have a crossed wire situation... I would put a voltmeter across your connection points and monitor when the voltage is present with ignition on and brakes applied. As I read your story my understanding is that when you apply brakes the Unit then says it wants to switch off in 30 sec. This only happens to the unit when the voltage supply is disconnected. Just because the brake light comes on as well does not mean there is not enough power to supply the Garmin also. Seems as if you may have picked the wrong wires to connect to. Live when no brakes and off when you apply brakes. Check it out ...
Adrian
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bumpkin
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Joined: Feb 08, 2006
Posts: 264
Location: Herefordshire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Problem solved
It was me being thick Embarassed , I hadn't tested if the ground I'd assumed was the negative rear light wire was live when the brakes were applied. In fact I'd tapped into the brake light positive feed. Took all of ten minutes to unsolder, re-solder to the real negative wire and bind with insulating tape again...

Stop it!
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Chas
Garmin i3, Quest & StreetPilot 2720 with GTM10
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Aladdin_Sane
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Joined: Jan 01, 2006
Posts: 79

PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I linked mine into the headlight curcuit. I always ride with my lights on and having the quest wired to them reminds me to switch em on. 8)
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bumpkin
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Joined: Feb 08, 2006
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Location: Herefordshire

PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aladdin_Sane wrote:
I linked mine into the headlight curcuit. I always ride with my lights on and having the quest wired to them reminds me to switch em on. 8)

My VFR VTEC, being an '03 model, has no light switch. They're permanently on like a Volvo 8O Otherwise I would have hooked it into the + feed to the rear brake switch and grounded to the frame. I wanted a feed that came on with the ignition switch so, yes, headlights would have done the trick as well in my case although they go out when thumbing the starter to reduce load on the battery. On main bean the VTEC runs 4 halogen bulbs, best bike headlights ever IMHO.

Next time I'll read the wiring diagram before getting out the soldering iron...
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Chas
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feef
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Joined: May 09, 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a dedicated switched circuit for my accessories.

my autocom and garmin, plus 2 aux power sockets are run off their own fused battery connection. The garmin and autocom are also switched, whereas the sockets are direct.

I wanted it this way so I could...

..use the garmin and autocom, powered, with the ignition off

..turn off the autocom while on the move/stopped at lights (it's good for talking t othe pollion, but with music on, it's difficult to chat to the bike next to you, and pulling the cable out the helmet isnt practical)

the advantage of the unswitched, direct aux sockets, is that I can use them to keep the battery topped up with an optimate, plugged into the aux power socket.
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bumpkin
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Location: Herefordshire

PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

feef wrote:
I've got a dedicated switched circuit for my accessories.

my autocom and garmin, plus 2 aux power sockets are run off their own fused battery connection. The garmin and autocom are also switched, whereas the sockets are direct.

An ideal solution if you have the additional paraphernalia to plug in/connect. For the time being the only powered accessory I have is the Quest. I like the way it switches off and on with the ignition the way I have it wired at the moment, I can always cancel the 30 sec. warning and run of it's internal batteries if I need it with the ignition off.

I'll consider your solution for the future although I don't ride with a pillion and don't like music on the move so an Autocom is overkill just to listen to Mrs Garmin.
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Chas
Garmin i3, Quest & StreetPilot 2720 with GTM10
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feef
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Joined: May 09, 2006
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

because Autocom revised their range for 2005, you can pick up older units (7 pin are preferred) for not-a-lot on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290020633483

at a glance. Currently at under 40

a
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