Fried Go530?

[Kinetic]

I think I may have fried my Go530. I hadn't used it for several weeks and it was completely dead when I connected it to my car charger. It still wouldn't power up but then I noticed a burning smell so immediately disconnected it. I still get the light on the unit to say it's getting power but it won't boot up. Is it worth trying a battery swap to see if I can get it working? I've since bought a via 135 as a replacement and it's not too bad other than the very cheap speaker but if the 530 is worth salvaging then I will do it.

[justbrowsing]

It does sound like it's fried in which case an ic will also have blown if the device saw 12v. There are some places that can repair these so maybe worth checking as these x20/x30's are damn good devices.

[Kinetic]

Thanks for the reply. I'll get it repaired then as I agree it's a good quality product with great features.

[layingback]

Yes, a STUPID design of the 12v adapter: It's designed to take out the sat nav on a wire break!

It has 3 wires not 2, the 3rd under control of the sat nav allows the voltage to be raised/lowered. OK so far. But the open circuit setting appears to be 12v. So if this 3rd wire breaks ... sat nav cranks up its own voltage feed until it kills itself.

Bad enough, but TomTom are terrible at building cables - well cheap really. I've had several of their cables break at the stress point, simply because they don't properly protect them. Now a dead RDS traffic unit and a dead 720. So I expected the cable to break but never expected it to behave any different to if the fuse had failed.

I can see why they might want undervoltage protect, think starting the engine. But I don't understand why this sav nav control detects undervolts yet can't see and react to overvoltage!
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[M8TJT]

I think that you will find that the third wire is a voltage feedback so the remote voltage stabiliser can be adjusted so as provide the device with the correct voltage. The stabiliser could easily be built with a fail safe output voltage that will not fry the device, but it appears that TT have saved tuppence and not included it

[defi]

Join the red wire and white wire together (with solder, or a wire) at the board in the charger.
This ridiculous "situation" has been ongoing since the very first tomtom, the voltage drop between the cct board and plug will be so minute as to be irrelevant (mV).
I wonder how many tomtoms have been replaced due to this moronic "feature"
First thing i did when i got my 750, was to take apart the charger and short the red and white wires together on the circuit board.

[Rhubarbe]

[defi]

[Rhubarbe]

[defi]

Ok mine is from a 750 so perhaps a different design
Best of luck

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